Westy!
Get serious beer drinkers together and the inevitable question comes up: “What is the best beer in the world?” You can bet that the short list will have Westvleteren 12 on it.
Brouwerij Westvleteren at the Trappist Abbey of Sint Sixtus is a brewery that focuses on quality rather than quantity and ignores most commercial concerns. Their three beers have garnered international acclaim and many consider the Westvleteren 12 to be the best beer on the planet. Part of that perception is based on the fact that Westvleteren beers are quite difficult to find, even in Belgium. But most of it is because the beer is so damn good!
History
The Sint Sixtus monastery was established by Trappist monks in 1831 and the brewery began producing beer in 1839. The monks had come from the Trappist brewery Mont-des-Cats in France. (Today, Mont-des-Cats is a Trappist brewery with beer made under contract with Chimay). Unlike the other Trappist and Abbey breweries, Westvleteren was the only one that did not have their copper brew kettles requisitioned by the Germans in World Wars I and II, so they were able to maintain their operations during the two wars. Until 1931, Westvleteren only served their beer to visitors and guests. Since then, they sell to the general public, although they have always insisted on making only enough beer to operate the monastery, despite market demand. Since World War II, they have stopped selling to wholesalers and only sell their products at the brewery and the nearby visitors centre. According to Father Abbott, "We are not brewers. We are monks. We brew beer to be able to afford being monks.” Unlike many Trappist breweries where secular workers outnumber the monks, Westvleteren beers are brewed today largely by the monks themselves with help from a handful of lay workers.
From 1946 to 1992, Westvleteren licensed the St. Bernardus brewery in nearby Watou to brew beers under the Sint Sixtus name. The agreement ended when Westvleteren opened their new brewery in 1992. Today, St. Bernardus brews similar beers under their own name. I have often heard people say that Westvleteren XII and St. Bernardus Abt.12 are pretty much the same beer. Having tasted them side-by-side on numerous occasions, I can assure you this is not the case. That said, the St. Bernardus beers are excellent and should be recognized as such.
The Legendary Beers
Westvleteren currently makes three beers: 1) the Blond (at 5.8% ABV), Westvleteren 8 Extra (8.0% ABV) and Westvleteren 12 (10.2% ABV). There used to be no labels on the Westvleteren bottles; all the required legal information was on the crown caps. The caps are green for the Blonde, blue for the Dubbel (8) and yellow for the Grand Cru (12). In 2022, the Belgian government required that all beer bottles have a label. So, the monks of Westvleteren, rather than totally redesign the look of their bottles, made labels with the graphics from the bottle caps, plus a little additional information on the side flaps.
All of Westvleteren’s beers are bottle-conditioned, allowing them to develop in the bottle and experience a long shelf life. Ideally, they should have two to three years of age before drinking them. If stored properly, they can age for 10-15 years. I once had a well-cellared 21-year-old Westvleteren 12 and it was stunning!
Blond
Westvleteren Blond is a world-class golden ale that is very drinkable and refreshing. Malty notes grassy, floral hops and a clean citrus note make it nearly perfect on a warm day. It serves as the monks’ day-to-day beer. Aromas and flavors of local hops, citrus, apples, hay and grass are perfectly balanced with hop bitterness and Westmalle yeast notes.
Dubbel
Westvleteren 8 Extra is a dark amber-colored dubbel with a big, dense, creamy head and nice lacing. Caramel, toffee, plums, pepper and floral hops dominate the perfumy nose. On the palate, sweet malts and herbal bitterness with plums, nuts, dried fruit, toffee, and burnt caramel come through. Alcohol is 8.0% ABV. Westvleteren 8 Extra is an all-around great beer that is a fitting rival to its big brother, Westvleteren 12.
Grand Cru
Westvleteren 12 itself is the pride of the family, and possibly the entire Belgian brewing industry. Its complexity and depth of flavor is legendary. Deep reddish brown with a white head and prominent carbonation, its aroma is malty, roasty and a bit spicy. Flavors of dark bread, caramel, chocolate, molasses, raisins, plums, figs and a touch of blackcurrant are balanced by hops and alcohol bitterness. It is full-bodied with solid carbonation and a smooth texture with a bite of smooth alcohol, but not hot or solventy. The 12 can only be described as very complex and exceptional.
Limited Production
Since 1946, production has held steady at just 60,000 cases per year, the least of any Trappist brewery. There are no plans to expand that. They brew two brews per day on 42 days each year. Westvleteren does not sell to distributors and works actively to eliminate illicit sales of Westvleteren products. That is why the brewery has made it hard to acquire the beer to start with and only sells it in limited quantities at the brewery or their visitors centre, In de Vrede. If you make a reservation and show up at the prescribed time, you can buy beer directly from the monastery. For a slightly higher price, you can buy the beers almost any time from In de Vrede.
In de Vrede, by the way, is an excellent facility where you can buy whatever beers are available during your visit, as well as cheeses, glassware, apparel, and other monastery products. They also have a very good restaurant and a sunny patio where visitors can enjoy good food, beers, and some special treats (such as a Westvleteren 12 ice cream float or ice cream sundae).
When you are in Belgium it is a must-stop on your journey. If you can find Westvleteren beers there or elsewhere, grab them up and experience the legend!
Sante!