Belgian White Gold
White Asparagus Season (mid-April to late June) is in full swing! The vegetable is often referred to as “white gold,” because of its high price. The Belgians love it and the Germans and Dutch do as well. The Germans call white asparagus Spargel and the season as Spargelzeit. In Belgium, the center of asparagus cultivation is Mechelen and Flanders is the best place to savor it. During the short season, restaurants throughout Belgium create special white asparagus menus that include everything from the ubiquitous Asperges op Vlaamse Wijze (Flemish-style White Asparagus) to asparagus with ham and cheese, asparagus soup, asparagus salads and even asparagus ice cream. The Belgians take full advantage of the season and can’t seem to get enough of the unique vegetable.
What’s the Difference?
What’s the difference between white asparagus and green asparagus? Green asparagus grows above the ground, producing chlorophyll that turns it green. White asparagus is the same plant, but the shoots have dirt piled around them to prevent them from being exposed to light; so, they are white in color. The entire process is labor-intensive and expensive, resulting in higher prices at the market. What is the difference in flavor? White asparagus is sweeter and more tender than its green cousin. It can be pencil-thin or over an inch wide – with the thicker spears drawing a higher price.
There are literally dozens of recipes for white asparagus. To keep the spears fresh, they are continuously sprayed with water. Preparation generally begins with breaking off the tough bottom and then peeling (with a vegetable peeler) all the way up to the head. The peelings are often used to make a boiling liquid, as the first step in most preparations is boiling or steaming the stalks until they are tender.
White asparagus used to be rare in U.S. supermarkets and were very expensive. These days it is much easier to find in good supermarkets and is generally only a dollar or so more per pound than green asparagus. If you find some at your favorite market (only April through late June) buy some and make the rather simple recipe below. You will be glad you did.
Asperges op Vlaamse Wijze (Flemish-style White Asparagus)
1 lb White asparagus
2 Hard-boiled eggs
3 Tb Butter (melted)
1 tsp Fresh-squeezed lemon juice
1 Tb Chopped Italian parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Trim the ends of the asparagus with a vegetable peeler. Cook in boiling water until tender (about 15 minutes).
Peel shells off hard-boiled eggs and separate the whites from the yolks. In a blender or food processor, pulse the yolks into a fine crumble. Clean the blender and repeat the process with the egg whites.
Mix the whites and yolks in a bowl. Garnish the cooked asparagus with the crumbled egg yolks and whites. Chop the parsley and divide it over the asparagus. Drizzle with the warm melted butter. Finish with a sprinkle of freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste.
Serve warm with a Belgian Blond ale or a Witbier.
